Quiosque Culture


Rio’s South Zone beaches, Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, have been suffering years of gradual upgrades that painting over Rio’s vibrant beach culture with retro-futuristic tackiness. There are new police units, the Tourist Police, in attractive cut uniforms, protecting tourists from petty assaults, harassing barefoot young black children with numbing frequency, occasionally raiding the pot smoker’s […]

Banda de Ipanema


It’s Carnaval in Rio, and today Ipanema transforms into a mega-party as 80,000 people take to the streets for the Banda de Ipanema parade.      

Night Walk


Nightfall in Ipanema. At the end of Ipanema beach There is a palm tree tunnel. At the end of the tunnel, the cars disappear and it’s all boardwalk and beach. Victor is charming passing ladies into buying him pizza. He wants you to see his skateboard. This is the end of Ipanema. Where the boardwalk […]

The Hippie Fair


Sundays in Ipanema, the Feira Hippie goes down at the General Osório plaza. As it has every Sunday, without exception, since 1968. The Feira Hippie website claims it’s the largest open-air art gallery and artisanal fair in the world, which is obviously not the case.  It occupies a single square block. It isn’t even the largest such art […]



 Sundays in Ipanema, the city turns the southbound lanes into a pedestrian playground. More RioChromatic: The super-chill neighborhood at the north end of Copacabana is Leme. Click to get into it.

Ipanema Frames


October in Ipanema. Kickball in Arpoador. Sunset over Dois Irmãos. Original photography by @jruv, shot in time lapse mode with a GoPro Hero2.  

Museu da Favela


This is the view from a place I like to call Ipanema Hills. Walk up Teixeira de Melo in Ipanema till you hit the massive elevator; an attendant inside takes you up to Cantagalo. Cantagalo has narrow streets. Ridiculous views. No stop signs. Street art everywhere. Flip flops and BBQ. Wellison and Bruno. What’s up […]

Arpoador Freestyle


Summer afternoon freestyle in Arpoador, the magical east end of Ipanema Beach.   Watch more: Six scenes of lazer, or workout leisure, in Rio’s South Zone.  (via RioChromatic) Five minutes with football freestyle legend Fernando Pitt in Copacabana. (via RioChromatic)