Beco do Batman


Beco do Batman, a graffiti wonderland in São Paulo’s Vila Madalena neighborhood since the 1980’s. See if you can spot the bat signal.     More street art on Riochromatic: SHINE AND FLOW — Street signs in and around Santa Teresa, my favorite place I’ve ever lived. (link)         PRAZERES — Portuguese for […]

I <3 Santa


 I start at the arches of Lapa. Or Flamengo Beach. Or the Selaron steps. Or the metro stop in Gloria. If I’m in a rush, or wearing heels, or carrying groceries, or I want to feel the breeze on my face, I ask one of these guys to take me up the hill to Santa […]

Arpoador Ebb & Flow

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     Arpoador Freestyle (link)          October in Ipanema (link)             Night Walk (link)

Another Depressing Zoo


I had a dream last night I was on a long trek to get to this wild animal park type of place. It was like a big perfectly shaped mound in the middle of this nature scape with all these wild animals inside. The Rio Zoo is not that place. It’s one of over a […]

Red Carpet

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Rio Film Festival is on for the next fifteen days in my favorite city on the planet. 350 films from 60 countries in 18 theaters across the city. This was opening night. Black and white and iPhones all over. Floor-length royal blue lace and a matching mic. Capes and sparkles! These guys are from the […]

Quiosque Culture


Rio’s South Zone beaches, Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, have been suffering years of gradual upgrades that painting over Rio’s vibrant beach culture with retro-futuristic tackiness. There are new police units, the Tourist Police, in attractive cut uniforms, protecting tourists from petty assaults, harassing barefoot young black children with numbing frequency, occasionally raiding the pot smoker’s […]

Coffee Wars


Every once in a while you find a place that tourists and gringos who do not identify as tourists both love. That place is the beloved Confeitaria Colombo, a stained glass rainbow of historic awesomeness, coffee and homemade pastries on a little alley in the heart of downtown Rio. So awesome that Starbucks decided to […]



“Pacified, the German Complex Will Now Have Sightseeing Tours.” Named in reference to a Polish immigrant who settled in the area almost a hundred years ago and was nicknamed “the German” by locals, Rio’s Complexo de Alemão – or German Complex  – made local and international headlines in 2012 for two seemingly unrelated reasons: a […]

Hotel Paris

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PARIS IN LIMBO: French hotelier François-Xavier Dussol invites me to capture the final days of abandon at the Hotel Paris before it breathes new life as downtown Rio’s first 5-star hotel. The wreckage is beautiful. We enter an unmarked door next to a mattress store bathed in limelight. A sign behind the reception reads, “It is prohibited to walk the […]

Barra Surf


I stay up late, wake up at eight. Time for some coffee and it’s time to go to last day of the Billabong Rio Pro. Head to Ipanema Beach and head south. Past the cones Past the cars Past the path to the Sheraton Past the bike rack at Vidigal. Take your friends Take your […]