Coffee Wars


Every once in a while you find a place that tourists and gringos who do not identify as tourists both love. That place is the beloved Confeitaria Colombo, a stained glass rainbow of historic awesomeness, coffee and homemade pastries on a little alley in the heart of downtown Rio. So awesome that Starbucks decided to […]

Detour: Inhotim


I’m 300 miles north of Rio in the largest gathering of palm trees in the world. I’m in the middle of nowhere surrounded by art. This is Inhotim. Cildo Meireles – Inmensa   Edgard de Souza – Untitled   Galeria Adriana Varejão Cristina Iglesias – Vegetation Room Dan Graham – Bisected triangle, Interior curve Matthew Barney – De Lama […]

Bieber’s Brothel Visit


Justin Bieber visited a brothel this weekend in Rio de Janeiro, and if anyone out there has doubts as to whether the place he went to was actually a brothel, I can confirm it for you. Justin Bieber went to a brothel. But not just any brothel. Centaurus, two blocks from the sand in Ipanema Beach […]

Brazil’s #1 Puta


Gabriela Leite 04/22/1951 – 10/10/2013 Gabriela inaugurated a way of being and doing politics. Born into a middle class family in São Paulo, she left her college studies in 1970s to work in prostitution. In the late 1970s, she organized the first protests against the frequent human rights abuses she witnessed among her colleagues. Gabriela […]

Vai Lacraia

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This is a lacraia, and this bug will fuck you up. I saw four military police with machine guns stomping it to death on the sidewalk in Ipanema. They paused for a photo. Surreal. From a study of lacraia bite victims in Sao Paulo in the 1990’s: “The most frequent clinical manifestations were erythema, edema, […]

Separated Lovers


For me, the magic center of Rio de Janeiro is its Botanical Garden. But I should denounce the fact that this magical center harbors a tragic episode: the separation of two lovers. The lovers are still in the garden, the nymph Eco and Narciso But further from each other than when they were alive. The […]

Night Walk


Nightfall in Ipanema. At the end of Ipanema beach There is a palm tree tunnel. At the end of the tunnel, the cars disappear and it’s all boardwalk and beach. Victor is charming passing ladies into buying him pizza. He wants you to see his skateboard. This is the end of Ipanema. Where the boardwalk […]



“Pacified, the German Complex Will Now Have Sightseeing Tours.” Named in reference to a Polish immigrant who settled in the area almost a hundred years ago and was nicknamed “the German” by locals, Rio’s Complexo de Alemão – or German Complex  – made local and international headlines in 2012 for two seemingly unrelated reasons: a […]

One Square Block


One square block of street art in the Lagoa district. Start at Rua Batista de Costa and take a deep breath. It’s going to be a while till we come up for air. I love how some people still don’t think graffiti is art. Partial credits. All photos in this post were taken here on […]

The Organ Forest


On the fifth day of dengue the fever dropped On the eighth day I itched till I cried On the twelfth day I rested in the Organ Forest. I took the bus north a while to Teresopolis Past the pools Past the mannequins in the plaza Love and chocolate Love and chocolate and love I stayed […]